nedjelja, 1. studenoga 2009.
nedjelja, 27. rujna 2009.
IntroductionThe energy for a mouse-trap powered cars is stored in the mouse trap spring and it drives a wheel by some arrangement such as a string connected from the trap's jaws. There was a competition among the mechanical engineers at my University to build a mouse trap car that could travel the furthest. There were plenty of different designs. The winners had a design that released energy from the spring slowly and had only two wheels! The mouse trap hung from the axle. There are endless variations of designs for mouse-trap cars. The design I describe here is not a record breaker, but it can be made easily at home. If you do want to see some record breakers try Mike Flamino and Kevin McHale's Ultimate Mouse Trap Car Home Page. Actually, I don't think it really is the ultimate mouse trap car but it has a cute animated gif of a hopping mouse.
What You Will Need
One wooden mouse trap or rat trap.
Two lengths of 4 mm metal rod that are each about 15 mm longer than the width of the mouse trap. An engineering firm should be able to give or sell some scraps of steel rod and it can probably be bought at hobby stores too..
Four small eye-hole screws. These are like cup hooks but the hook part makes a circle. The eye must be large enough to put the rod through.
Some pieces of 3-ply plywood for the wheels.
Two rubber bands.
Some string.
A stack of small washers with a 4 mm inside diameter
You will need the following tools:
a drill with a 3.7 mm bit,
a jigsaw or coping saw,
a compass,
a hammer,
a vice,
a hacksaw,
a flat file,
some super glue,
two-part epoxy glue,
a pair of pliers, and
a flat jeweller's file.
How To Build It
With the pliers pull the wire catch that holds the trap open and the bait holder out of the wooden mouse trap. Pull out the wire staples that hold these parts in place, too. Keep the wire catch.
Take one of the eye hooks and screw it into one end of the mouse trap about 8 mm from one of the edges. Leave the eye hook in a position where the eye of the hook looks towards the sides of the mouse trap. Do this gently so that the wood of the mouse trap does not split. If splitting is a problem drill a small hole first.
Screw the other three eye hooks into the other three corners of the mouse trap.
Using a compass, mark out four 75 mm diameter circles on the plywood.
Drill the centres of the four circles with the 3.7 mm drill bit. Make sure that the metal rod will require some force to be inserted into the holes.
Cut out the circles from the plywood with the jigsaw or coping saw.
File the plywood circles smooth with the flat file.
Holding the rods in a vice cut each of them to a length equal to the width of the mouse trap plus two times the thickness of the plywood plus 5 mm.
File the ends of the rods smooth and put a small chamfer on them.
Hold one of the rods in the vice and use the hacksaw to make a small cut across the rod about one-third of its length from the end. The cut should go about half way through the rod.
Using the jeweller's file widen the slot so that the wire catch that you removed in the first step can fit snugly into it.
With the pliers cut a 7 mm piece of the wire catch.
File the ends of the piece of wire so that there are no burrs.
With the two-part epoxy glue, glue the wire piece into the slot in the axle. The wire piece should overhang the rod on one side only. Let the glue dry overnight.
Take the rod with the wire piece in it and put it through the eye hooks at the rear of the mouse trap. The rear is the end where the trap jaws lie when it is set.
Put a number of washers on the axle at either end. There should be enough of the rod left at either side to accomodate the wheels but not too much rod or the wheels will rub against the mouse trap.
With the vice, push a wheel onto each end of the axle.
Assemble the front axle in the same way as the rear axle.
Take the piece of string and tie it to the middle of the mouse-trap jaws.
Tie a small loop in the string so that the tip of the loop ends at the rear axle. Cut the loose ends off the string.
Take the rubber bands and put one around each of the rear wheels. The rubber bands will give the wheels traction on smooth surfaces. Use some drops of super glue to hold the rubber bands in place. The mouse-trap car is complete! To use it start by raising the jaw of the mouse trap slightly. Take the loop at the end of the string and slip it over the wire piece on the rear axle
. Turn the rear wheels in reverse so that the string winds onto the axle. This will pull the trap jaws open. When the trap jaws have been fully opened put the mouse trap car on the ground and release it.
What You Will Need
One wooden mouse trap or rat trap.
Two lengths of 4 mm metal rod that are each about 15 mm longer than the width of the mouse trap. An engineering firm should be able to give or sell some scraps of steel rod and it can probably be bought at hobby stores too..
Four small eye-hole screws. These are like cup hooks but the hook part makes a circle. The eye must be large enough to put the rod through.
Some pieces of 3-ply plywood for the wheels.
Two rubber bands.
Some string.
A stack of small washers with a 4 mm inside diameter
You will need the following tools:
a drill with a 3.7 mm bit,
a jigsaw or coping saw,
a compass,
a hammer,
a vice,
a hacksaw,
a flat file,
some super glue,
two-part epoxy glue,
a pair of pliers, and
a flat jeweller's file.
How To Build It
With the pliers pull the wire catch that holds the trap open and the bait holder out of the wooden mouse trap. Pull out the wire staples that hold these parts in place, too. Keep the wire catch.
Take one of the eye hooks and screw it into one end of the mouse trap about 8 mm from one of the edges. Leave the eye hook in a position where the eye of the hook looks towards the sides of the mouse trap. Do this gently so that the wood of the mouse trap does not split. If splitting is a problem drill a small hole first.
Screw the other three eye hooks into the other three corners of the mouse trap.
Using a compass, mark out four 75 mm diameter circles on the plywood.
Drill the centres of the four circles with the 3.7 mm drill bit. Make sure that the metal rod will require some force to be inserted into the holes.
Cut out the circles from the plywood with the jigsaw or coping saw.
File the plywood circles smooth with the flat file.
Holding the rods in a vice cut each of them to a length equal to the width of the mouse trap plus two times the thickness of the plywood plus 5 mm.
File the ends of the rods smooth and put a small chamfer on them.
Hold one of the rods in the vice and use the hacksaw to make a small cut across the rod about one-third of its length from the end. The cut should go about half way through the rod.
Using the jeweller's file widen the slot so that the wire catch that you removed in the first step can fit snugly into it.
With the pliers cut a 7 mm piece of the wire catch.
File the ends of the piece of wire so that there are no burrs.
With the two-part epoxy glue, glue the wire piece into the slot in the axle. The wire piece should overhang the rod on one side only. Let the glue dry overnight.
Take the rod with the wire piece in it and put it through the eye hooks at the rear of the mouse trap. The rear is the end where the trap jaws lie when it is set.
Put a number of washers on the axle at either end. There should be enough of the rod left at either side to accomodate the wheels but not too much rod or the wheels will rub against the mouse trap.
With the vice, push a wheel onto each end of the axle.
Assemble the front axle in the same way as the rear axle.
Take the piece of string and tie it to the middle of the mouse-trap jaws.
Tie a small loop in the string so that the tip of the loop ends at the rear axle. Cut the loose ends off the string.
Take the rubber bands and put one around each of the rear wheels. The rubber bands will give the wheels traction on smooth surfaces. Use some drops of super glue to hold the rubber bands in place. The mouse-trap car is complete! To use it start by raising the jaw of the mouse trap slightly. Take the loop at the end of the string and slip it over the wire piece on the rear axle
. Turn the rear wheels in reverse so that the string winds onto the axle. This will pull the trap jaws open. When the trap jaws have been fully opened put the mouse trap car on the ground and release it. petak, 25. rujna 2009.
Ubijanje?
Humanely
I had a little friend visit my apartment the other week, and for a while there I was ready to make peace with him and co-exist. But after I cleaned up the place and ordered pizza one night, and it crawled up the side of my chair onto the sleeve of my shirt, I knew it was time to bid farewell.
Here's how I caught the critter:
Get a toilet paper tube and crease two lines to form a flat sided tunnel.
Put a treat on one end of the tube: A cracker and dab of peanut butter works great.
Get a tall (at least 20 inches) bucket. A trash can works well.
Balance the tube precariously on the edge of a table or counter with the treat hanging directly over the tall sided receptacle.
The mouse will scurry to the treat (they like tunnels) and fall into the trap.
Set the fella loose at least a mile away from your abode.
Postnote: It worked within the hour.
Also, folks have asked how this could work if you don't have a counter or table. Simple: get a piece of cardboard and crease it to make a ramp up to a small trashcan.
mouse trap
Mouse trap designs
[edit] Spring-loaded bar mousetrap
A baited and primed spring-loaded bar mousetrap
Mousetrap, mouse, bait (chocolate)
The first spring-loaded mouse trap was invented by William C. Hooker of Abingdon Illinois, who received US patent 528671 for his design in 1894.[1][2] James Henry Atkinson, a British inventor who in 1897 invented a prototype called the "Little Nipper", probably had seen the Hooker trap in the shops o
r in advertisements and used it as the basis of his model.[3]
The traditional type was invented by Sir Hiram Stevens Maxim (who also invented the Maxim gun). It is a simple device with a heavily spring-loaded bar and a trip to release it. Stereotypically, cheese is placed on the trip as bait. Other food such as oats, chocolate, bread, meat, butter and peanut butter are also effective. The spring-loaded bar swings down rapidly and with great force when anything, usually a mouse or a rat, touches the trip. The design is such that the mouse's neck or spinal cord will be broken, or its ribs or skull crushed, by the force of the bar. Rats can easily escape from a mousetrap, so a larger version is used for them. Newer spring mouse traps have a plastic extended trigger made to look like a piece of Swiss cheese that is the color of American cheese.
John Mast of Lititz, Pennsylvania obtained an American patent for a similar snap-action device in 1899.[4]
Some modern plastic designs have the advantages that the trap can be set by the pressure of a single finger on a tab and that a dead mouse can be removed from the trap without touching the corpse.
[edit] Spring-loaded bar mousetrap
A baited and primed spring-loaded bar mousetrap
Mousetrap, mouse, bait (chocolate)
The first spring-loaded mouse trap was invented by William C. Hooker of Abingdon Illinois, who received US patent 528671 for his design in 1894.[1][2] James Henry Atkinson, a British inventor who in 1897 invented a prototype called the "Little Nipper", probably had seen the Hooker trap in the shops o
r in advertisements and used it as the basis of his model.[3]The traditional type was invented by Sir Hiram Stevens Maxim (who also invented the Maxim gun). It is a simple device with a heavily spring-loaded bar and a trip to release it. Stereotypically, cheese is placed on the trip as bait. Other food such as oats, chocolate, bread, meat, butter and peanut butter are also effective. The spring-loaded bar swings down rapidly and with great force when anything, usually a mouse or a rat, touches the trip. The design is such that the mouse's neck or spinal cord will be broken, or its ribs or skull crushed, by the force of the bar. Rats can easily escape from a mousetrap, so a larger version is used for them. Newer spring mouse traps have a plastic extended trigger made to look like a piece of Swiss cheese that is the color of American cheese.
John Mast of Lititz, Pennsylvania obtained an American patent for a similar snap-action device in 1899.[4]
Some modern plastic designs have the advantages that the trap can be set by the pressure of a single finger on a tab and that a dead mouse can be removed from the trap without touching the corpse.
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